Bagan is perhaps one of the most unusual places in Myanmar. Everywhere you look, something feels out of the ordinary. Fishermen catch fish with their feet on Inle Lake. The giant U-Bein teak bridge in Amarapura stretches for more than a kilometer. The country’s capital, Naypyidaw, was built from scratch. At the Shwedagon Pagoda, a gilded stone is believed to rest on a strand of Buddha’s hair. There is even a monastery of flying cats…
- Bagan
- The way to Bagan
- Other options to get there
- Morning at Pagan Kingdome
- A thousand pagodas of Bagan
Bagan
But Bagan stands out not only within Myanmar, but on a global scale. An unprecedented number of pagodas from the Pagan Empire, which once flourished in this region, still surround the city. Interestingly, UNESCO has not added this complex to its World Heritage List, purely for political reasons.
Thousands of pagodas, temples, stupas, and monasteries fill the valley. Despite their number, they stand quite close to each other. Visitors can explore almost all of them on foot, admire them from higher viewpoints, or see them from a hot air balloon — a service offered by local travel agencies. I skipped that option. I had only one day to explore the temple city after escaping a formal forum in Naypyidaw.
The way to Bagan
By evening, I reached the capital’s bus station. I found a bus to Bagan, bought a handwritten ticket, grabbed some simple food before departure, drank a local beer, and boarded the bus. I traveled light — my things stayed at the hotel in Naypyidaw. I hadn’t booked accommodation in Bagan, and the bus was due to arrive close to midnight. Complete freedom and uncertainty, just the way I like it.
Roads in Myanmar range from mediocre to surprisingly modern. Naypyidaw stands out, with its empty ten-lane highways built for a distant future, as does the Yangon–Naypyidaw–Mandalay federal highway. Part of the journey to Bagan follows this highway toward Mandalay. About halfway there, the bus leaves it and enters a classic South Asian road with endless turns and very scenic views.
Along the way, the bus stops a couple of times for food and restrooms. Everything feels authentic, very Southeast Asian, and not particularly hygienic. That didn’t bother me. I already enjoyed the fact that I had escaped the forum, with its hotels, conference halls, formal dinners, and even a meeting with the country’s president.
I don’t remember exactly when the bus arrived. It was dark and very late. Relatives picked up all the passengers. There was no public transport, and only one taxi driver lingered nearby — luckily for me. “Take me to a cheap hotel,” I asked. He did.
The driver didn’t travel alone. A friend sat with him, perhaps for company — or maybe word had spread that Russians were arriving. Once, in the US, a Hindu taxi driver drove my friend and me with his wife in the front seat, holding a child on her lap. Almost ten years have passed since then, and it’s getting harder to surprise me. Still, I later realized that the bus station stood even farther from the city than the airport. I had never seen anything like that before, although both places were only about a five-minute drive away.
Other options to get there
Yes, you can also fly here. That option works best if you start in Yangon, Taunggyi, or Mrauk-U. However, direct flights to Bagan operate only from Heho, Mandalay, and Yangon. From other cities, you’ll need a connection.
Later, I learned about more exotic ways to reach Bagan. You can take an overnight train from Yangon — a tempting idea. Or you can travel by boat from Mandalay. A nine-hour journey down an Asian river sounds even more intriguing.
For now, I arrived by bus and checked into a hotel recommended by taxi drivers. I had to wake the owner, testing the durability of his door for a while. I don’t remember the exact time, but at the end of that long day I finally checked into a single room with a fan and breakfast for $10. I forgot the hotel’s name and remember only its approximate location.
Morning at Pagan Kingdome
In the morning, during breakfast, I watched with envy as an Asian tourist showed off photos from a hot air balloon ride. Flights take place at dawn, and of course, I slept through it. When I learned the price — several hundred dollars — my envy quickly faded. I decided to exchange money and figure things out.
After getting a thick stack of kyats, I accidentally stumbled upon an electric scooter rental. That was a first in my travels. No other option allowed me to see so many pagodas on my own in a single day. The ridiculous price — $5 or $7 — settled all remaining doubts. Armed with my phone and a map downloaded to Maps.me, I set off. First, I rode around the area near the hotel.
The city sits by a river that flows around it from the north, turns west, and then heads south. Most historic buildings stand to the west. To the east, where hotels cluster, newer temples appear. I started there and also took a look at the Irrawaddy River.
Local transport caught my attention immediately. Only few places in the world feel more colorful.
The fire station looks surprisingly well maintained.
Motorbikes dominate, of course.
But also many people ride bicycles.
And tourists travel in horse-drawn carts.
The newer temples, not as ancient as those from the Pagan kingdom, resemble typical Buddhist monasteries for the region.
The smoking old ladies, however, steal the show. They happily pose for photos in exchange for a few kyats.
Near the hotel, I even found a mosque.
And, as often happens to me, I took a wrong turn and got lost. Soon after, I stumbled upon an art studio and bought several scroll paintings.
A thousand pagodas of Bagan
Eventually, I headed toward the valley of pagodas along a scenic road.
I stopped often, wandered among stupas, took photos, and climbed wherever possible. Sometimes no one seemed around. More often, a caretaker appeared and reminded me to remove my shoes. They never asked for money — or perhaps I simply missed the hint.
Inside, some pagodas still preserve old murals. Others display newer sculptures.
Even small stupas offer stunning views of the valley.
From there, the scale of construction becomes clear.
If caretakers don’t guide you, local boys happily show the way to the roof for a few kyats.
Maybe some of them will grow up to be ministers or scientists — who knows?
In reality, helpers aren’t necessary. The structures remain simple. The main challenge lies in squeezing through narrow gaps, if your physique allows it.
Wildlife lives here too. You can even spot squirrels or crows on your camera.
Larger pagodas come next. They appear on Google Maps and have names. With effort, I could reconstruct the entire route in detail. But I see little point in that — you’ll encounter everything anyway.
These temples feel more impressive inside, and the views grow richer.
Trade thrives around major sites, and I bought a few wooden items that looked like flea market antiques rather than souvenirs.
With time left before sunset, I headed toward New Bagan, farther from my hotel. There I found the Mya Zedi Pagoda, a more modern structure with a model of part of the valley inside.
I also walked down to the river after the bend. I found interesting roots and a termite mound.
I sat by the shore, opened a beer, and nearly missed the sunset. As usual, it looked best from a tall pagoda.
Some large temples charge admission, so keep that in mind. Fees remain low — just bring some kyats. The sunset views from high pagodas are truly spectacular. Too bad my hands act like hooks and my equipment falls short; otherwise, I could have taken great shots.
Bagan is a magnificent destination. You definitely shouldn’t miss it in Myanmar.
